Fall 2012 Patterns:

“Earlene’s Everything Bag”

By: Keturah Ariel

Level: Beginner/Int.

Materials

6 skeins* of different textures of yarn (medium worsted, chunky/bulky, novelty yarns)

Hook Size: Jumbo (N or P size)

Needle and thread for sewing purse lining if needed

Fabric for purse lining if needed

*will only use 3 or 4 of the 6 skeins, but it is good to have extra yarn in case.

Gauge

Gauge is not as important but it is healthy to measure in inches.

Bag should be around 15 inches or however long you would like it. Bottom of the bag measures around 4 inches from center of to the edge radius. Handle measures around 21 inches handle length, width 3 3/4^th inches wide.

Abbreviations

SC-single crochet

DC-double crochet

HDC-half double crochet

Tr-treble or triple crochet

TIPS: handle all fly-a-ways and tails by weaving them inside your stitches as you go so that you do not need to mess with them after you are finish. I like to hide them within my stitches where you cannot see them. Also, if switching colors after a few rows, it is best in this project to simply tie/knot the new yarn right on to the last yarn. You will not see the knot because the project calls for the use of many yarns at the same time and because it is a chunky project or one with texture. I used regular medium weight yarns along with fluffy novelty yarns to add dimension to the bag.

STEP ONE: CIRCLE BOTTOM

Foundation ROW: Magic Loop (Ring)

Take 3 or 4 different yarns and hold them together as if they were one yarn and pull them into a medium size length piece.

Wrap it around your index and middle fingers forming a ring. Working yarn will be on the right side, vice versa for leftys. Hold the yarn where they overlap and while working behind the ring, insert your crochet hook making a loop from the working yarn (on the right side).

Chain 1 and then pull up on the magic loop closing it a little. Repeat making 10 chain stitches inside of the loop. When you have finished, pull the hanging yarn until it closes. This is the magic loop (ring). Create a knot to secure as an extra step. Weave in tail.

I like creating magic loops better than foundation chains for circles because the loop adjusts itself as needed. You can make the loop smaller or open it up for adding more chains.

Here is Crochet Geek’s tutorial for creating the magic loop (magic ring) by Teresa Richardson that also includes a video step by step tutorial:

http://crochet-mania.blogspot.ca/2009/02/how-to-do-crochet-magic-loop-circle.html

STEP TWO: THE BAG

ROW 2: SC twice in each of the 10 chain stitches. Total number of stitches should be 20.

ROW 3: DC entire row.

ROW 4: SC twice in each of the 20 stitches. Total number of stitches should be 40.

ROW 5: Tr every other stitch.

Option to switch to only two yarns at a time for the rest of the bag or keep going with your more bulkier option that is already at the base of the purse (3/4 yarns at a time).

ROW 6-14: Tr in between each stitch creating a mesh pattern.

ROW 15: HDC in each stitch entire row.

To form handles:

You will need to use four stitch markers. Measure how wide you would like the bag to be. Then place stitch markers at the beginning and ends of the area on each side of the bag. Make sure that your bag is even and that the handle areas are in the middle of the bag on both sides.

For this bag, my width was 11 stitches (a very wide handle).

CHOOSE AN OPTION on how to start your HANDLE:

Now either cut yarns and make a knot to secure bag, weave in the tail so that you can start with fresh yarn for the handle or

Continue to crochet into the area of the stitch markers to form the handle.

STEP THREE: HANDLE

If starting fresh with the handle: You can either crochet the handle separate and attach it at the points where you have inserted the stitch markers or you can begin to form handles with your new yarns in between the stitch markers.

Row 1: HDC crochet entire row. Turn work.

Row 2 –until handle length is achieved: Repeat HDC on each row and turn work at the end of each row.

Last Row: Graft the handle into the spot on the other side of the bag between your stich markers.

If continuing to crochet without cutting the yarns: just keep on crocheting into the area where you have placed the stitch markers.

Row 1: HDC crochet entire row in between the two stitch markers on one side of the bag. Turn work.

Row 2 –until handle length is achieved: Repeat HDC on each row and turn work at the end of each row.

Last Row: Graft the handle into the spot on the other side of the bag between your stich markers.

My finished handle measured 21 inches handle length, width 3 3/4^th in.

EDGING

The edging is done in SC with one contrasting color yarn (medium worsted yarn) for added detail.

Beginning at the bottom corner of the handle, start to SC along the outer edge of the handle and along the top of the bag (last row before your began the handle) until you reach the bottom corner of the other side of the handle. Cut yarn, make a knot and weave in the tail.

Do the same thing for the other side of the handle.

You are now finished! Unless….you want to line the bag.

Lining the bag: Option

I did not line my bag. I like it open and droopy.

If lining the bag, cut your fabric an half size to a full size bigger that your bag so that you have extra space at the bottom of the bag. Because the nature of the stitch will cause the bag to expand and get wider (droopy) when items are placed inside, you must have extra fabric. This way you will not be stuck with a small lining that constricts the droppy-ness of the bag.

Once you have cut your fabric, turn bag inside out and pin the top of the fabric near the edge of the bag neatly with raw edging on the inside. Top stitch hand sew along the top of the bag. If using a sewing machine just be careful and use whatever settings are correct for knitted or thick fabric so that your needle does not break.

Enjoy! (Send me pictures of your bag and I will post them)

Copyright 2010. Keturah Ariel, Crochet Savvy & Knitfabulous, www.crochetsavvy.com Pattern may not be sold without my permission; however it can be used to make items that you can sell as long as proper credit and citation is shown that pattern was created by Keturah Ariel of Crochet Savvy & Knitfabulous. You may link to this pattern from other websites, email and electronic documents. Please ask permission first if you need or want to copy this pattern to your website. While we prefer that you link it directly to us, we understand that sometimes people need the pattern for groups or charity crochet/knitting, etc. Please contact us at info@crochetsavvy.com if this is the case and you would like this pattern to be featured on your website, etc.

“Pauline’s Fall Infinity Scarf” Pattern

by: KeTurah Ariel

Level: Beginner

Materials

1 skein of multi-colored (soft medium worsted) BRAND: “I love this Yarn!” Jazz Stripes

Hook Size: (10 US 6.0mm size)

Gauge

Gauge is not important but it is healthy to measure in inches.

Scarf uses Bullion stitching on edging with Double and Treble stitches within the scarf. It is crocheted lengthwise. Scarf should be able to wrap around at least once. Wear infinity scarves multiple ways.

Abbreviations

DC-double crochet

Tr-treble or triple crochet

Bulllion stitch crochet

Pattern

Chain 200

Row one: Work Bullion stitch by wrapping hook six times in each bobble. Repeat until the end of row. Join the beginning and end of the row thus creating a circle.

Row two: Tr entire row. Join row.

Row three: DC row. Join row.

Row four and five: Tr entire row. Join row.

Row six: Work Bullion stitch by wrapping hook six times in each bobble. Repeat until the end of row and fasten off. Weave in the end tail.

Complete.

This is my favorite scarf. It is thin but also super comfy for summer nights or fall days. Try creating it with a multi color yarn like I did because it gives it that “WHOAH” factor! And in the spring or summer time, try a crochet thread or lightweight yarn with colors of the season for a more lighter and looser touch.